Kalymnos, Rocky Wonderland

Kalymnos May 18-25 2006 It hardly seemed like two and a half years since we were last climbing in Kalymnos, everything looked much the same though hopefully, there were lots of new routes for us to hurl ourselves at. This was to be our third visit to the island and the first time in spring. The island was a bit greener and there were more wild flowers but there did seem to be more mosquitoes that any of us remembered and we were reduced to buying a little plug-in device from the local store to reduce night time attack.

We used a package deal with Olympic holidays as this had proved to be the cheapest and most convenient way of getting to our accommodation as all the taxis and the ferry were arranged for us. Things may change in the future however, Kalymnos airport was almost ready for its maiden landing (elections due soon on the island, promises to keep) which should allow for cheap flights from the UK via Athens.

We stayed B&B at the Myrsina Hotel which is at the bottom of the hill in Myrties as one arrives from the island capital Pothia. Picture 1, view from the balcony with Telendos island in the background. The island is very rocky and the summit looks virtually unapproachable from the south (left) due to a continuous line of crags.

We hired a small car from Kalymnos Rent, based only a few 100 metres from the hotel and for the first couple of days Gerry and I eased ourselves back into climbing real rock instead of the plastic stuff dow the local climbing wall, whereas Nick and Roger were soon grappling with the 6c and above.

Thursday, Odyssey. The short walk. Gerry and I had climbed here several times before but the new guide and a handy supplement from The Climbers Nest €1.60 or the information office, free gave a few more routes to try. At the left end Clyde 6b+ and Mythos 6b+*** gave some absorbing technical climbing at a reasonable angle. Clyde doesn't get any stars in the guide but is well worth doing.

Friday, Afternoon Another warm-up crag for us with the advantage of being out of the sun for most of the day. Swiss Baby 6a didn't seem quite worth its 3 stars but both Janas Kitchen 6b*** and By By Doc 6c*** were superb routes. Further up the hillside was the huge scoop of Spartacus which contains some superb looking lines, see picture 2. This was very busy as it was in the shade and we were unable to get onto any of the routes 6c and below.

Saturday, Panorama Roger and Nick were both keen to get on the steeper stuff and I was toying with the idea of a go at Trella 6c+*** which takes a ludicrous line amongst the overhanging tufas at the back of the Grande Grotta. No chance. Unless you were there to grab it at first light it was permanently taken by a large group of climbers leading and top roping all day. Picture 3 shows the Grande Grotta with a group of climbers for scale and picture 4, a climber approaching the lower-off on Trella (Madness). Since this picture was taken a huge stalactite which was part of the route and provided a hands off rest, has detatched itself. The route may now be 7a+.

Picture 5 is Nick on Uncle Bert 6c* a technical and steep tufa climb, Gerry and I climbed the adjacent Uncle Ernie 6b+* which, despite its single star was excellent.

Life's not just climbing, there's the mad social whirl that goes with it. Well OK, the boozing and eating. One evening we took the ferry across to Telendos island. there are two ferries that ply there ways back and forth until midnight, the crossing takes 10 minutes and costs €1.60. Picture 6 shows the captain manning the tiller , picture 7 is us at aperitif time, left to right Wendy, Betty, Nick, Gerry and Roger. We dined at Zorbas which was excellent and returned late, not to strains of Greek love songs but to Pink Floyd's Shine on you Crazy Diamond. Eight, Nick, quite carried away by it all.

Sunday, Ghost (Sometimes Sea Side) Kitchen According to the Kalymnos guide this is one of the most important climbing areas on the island. Well, maybe. There were some excellent routes didn't compare with the monsters further south on the island. In the supplement the routes at the left end of the crag are written up in the wrong order but they are marked on the rock. Beware Talon 6a**, it's more like 6b and not worth 2 stars. Also, the lower slabs of Zyklop were sold as remaining in the shade until 16.00. Not so, in the sun by 13.00.

Joy in the Garden 6b*** was an excellent warm-up route, an unlikely looking line with a decent hold every move and probably no more that 6a+. Even better was the magnificent Remember Wadi Rum 6c***, despite its continuous overhang,probably no more that 6b until the last few metres above the resting thread. Picture 9 shows Nick on the first few moves.

Monday, School. Gerry and I opted for a mountain day and climbed the multipitch Oraia Stithi***, 5c,6a+,6a,6a+. Nice route though not *** but get there before the sun. Beautiful tits? Odd name, we didn't see any. Nick and Roger worked away at the nearby Odyssey,

Picture 10, Telendos island from the balcony of some taverna, picture 11, Nick on (just) Calipso 7a***.Picture 12, large and spectacular thistle.

Tuesday, Symplegades Rocks. A good venue for a hot day as it is in a gorge (collapsed cave) with one side or other in the shade, it also seemed to generate a breeze. No pictures, too busy climbing but definitely recommended are Homo Sapiens 6c*** and TNT 6c+* and KVR 6b**. Nick and Roger were also rating the desperate looking Kasaplias 6c+**.

Picture 12 a thistle, picture 13 the finger of Betty Bennion.

Chris Jackson, Gerry Langsley, Nick and Wendy Longland, Roger and Betty Bennion.

Conditions: Sunny every day, temperature 24C day 1 rising to 33C day 6.

chris.jackson@zen.co.uk