The Outer Hebrides 2-14th June 2006. 

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Several years ago Suzy and I made the crossing to the Outer Hebrides. There weather was fine and we became enchanted by the mystery of these flooded isles. The east coast of the Uists - uninhabited and unapproachable, obscure hills rising between a maze of lochans and the blue ranges of Harris's remote uplands fading into the haze. The Machaire with its flowers, the crystal blue water and the white shell sand beaches of the Atlantic shores. Time to return to those blue remembered hills.

From Oban w e made the 3.5 hour ferry crossing to Castlebay on the Island of Barra, the southernmost of the inhabited islands. It's a small community nestling in a deep bay on the south side of the island below its highest peak, Sheabhal (Heaval) at 383m. The peak is easily climbed from various directions and features a white marble Virgin and Child on its upper southwest slopes. South east is Vatersay, a series of rugged islets strung together by sandy spits and causeways that we explored by mountainbike, dipping in and out of the mist and sunshine all day. North, perhaps Barra's claim to fame, the famous airport on the beach at Tràigh Mhòr.

Picture 1, the CalMac ferry arriving at Oban on its 3.5 hour journey from Castlebay on Barra, 2, Castlebay and behind, the bay with a castle and 3, a plane on the runway. In the far distance is our campervan, in the company of a few others. There are no campsites on the island, and only 4 (I think) on the whole of the Outer Hebrides so wild camping is the norm. A list of approved chemical toilet emptying points was available from the Tourist Information Offices.

The next island to the north is South Uist and before 2002 the ferry ran from Castlebay to Lochboisdale, a twice daily trip of some 1.5 hours. Since then, the small island of Eriskay has been connected to South Uist by a new causeway a regular ferry now runs from Aird Mhòr near Barra airport to Eriskay in about 40 minutes. The Uists and Benbecula are machaire country. All along the Atlantic coast there are extensive dune systems of fine shell sand and over the centuries this blown sand has been mixed with sea weed and ploughed by the local farmers to form a rich and unique habitat for wild flowers and bird life. When we were there it was mainly yellow with primroses, buttercups, and unbelievable masses of daisies. We stopped for several nights by a magnificent stretch of sand a few miles up the coast from the Eriskay causeway This was also conveniently close to Lochboisdale the islands capital where we were able to get supplies, water, empty the toilet and grey water tanks and get a well needed shower in the immaculately clean facilities there. Lochboisedale proved a good setting off point for ascents of Beinn Ruigh Choinnich (280m) and Triuirebheinn (357m) though after leaving Beinn Ruigh Choinnich we didn't see very much as the cloud rapidly dropped to obscure everything. It was also very windy and it was a relief to lose some altitude down the easy west flank. The weather remained dry but the low cloud and wind persisted.

South Uist links to Benbecula, the flooded isle with its million lochans though the north part of South Uist probably has a million of its own. It's a flat island with no particular point of interest and the east coast is an amazing uninhabited lacery of islets and inlets. We pushed on over yet more linking causeways to North Uist, once again with its uninhabited east coast, ragged and flooded with endless lochans. We had hoped to visit Lochmaddy, the ferry port on the east coast and use this as a base for climbing the remote Lì an Tuath and Lì a Deas but the strong wind and low cloud made these unappealing objectives. Instead we visited the bird sanctuary at Balranald on the sunnier west coast. Lots of activity there, picture 4 Redshank, 5 Oyster catcher and 6 Tern (common?).

At the north end of North Uist is the small and pleasant island of Bernaray which contains the ferry point for the trip to South Harris, joined by the inevitable causeway It's a pretty island and we were led to believe by a letter in a well known motorhome magazine that we would be welcome to park overnight at the east bay at the end of the small coastal road. Not so, an English gentleman name of Steve made it clear that we were spoiling his view and suggested the west bay. No problem, beautiful spot and welcome to stay. I suspect some politics somewhere.

The ferry from Berneray to Leverbergh on South Harris is one of the great crossings of Scotland.The channel is littered with submerged rocks, islets and shallows and the ferry zigzags in and out of these in the most unlikely fashion, sometimes turning sharply through 90 degrees to squeeze between two bottom ripping obstacles.  South Harris is an island of mountains but also containing some wonderful beaches and marshes. Picture 7, sheep and lamb on salt marsh near Taobh Tuath some 6km out of Leverbergh.

Beaches? Did I say beaches? There are expanses to die for. Huge swathes of white sand swept by clear seas of an amazing turquoise blue. Pity the water temperature was struggling to reach 12C, see pictures 8 and 11. Picture 9 a moody sunset from our idyllic parking spot by the sea at Traìgh Niosaboise, shared with several other campervans. North from Tarbert we climbed (traversed?) the excellent Glen Skeaudale horse shoe, 10, Suzy just glad to be there. This was our summer and for 2.5 days it was almost too hot!

From the bottom of Glen Skeaudale, where the main road continues NE over the Bealách na Ciste, a single track road winds its way west along the north side of Loch a Siar. We had planned to climb a peak north of the road Uisgneabhal Mór (729m) which looked easily accessible from a bend in the road at the head of tiny Loch Mhaibhaig but on arrival the cloud was well down and the wind so strong that we were struggling to stand up at times. We retreated to plan B which was to drive to the end of the road. It's a lovely little road with an idyllic end but not one to hurry along as it twists and turns all the way to the end.

At one point we passed the starting point to a memorable triathlon day from our last trip when we cycled as far as we could up the power station road, then along the side of Loch Chliostair to a point where we resorted to walking to the huge crag of Sron Uladal. Here, we donned climbing gear and climbed Eureka, 440 feet of Scottish Severe rock that had Suzies eyes out on stalks more than once. I seem it remember that it took us 2 hours for the climb and 2 hours to find a way back down!

That was then, this was now. Beyond that point the road passes through the grounds of a posh looking retreat only marked as a chapel on the OS map, before ending at a superb beach. The weather cleared but the wind remained relentless and the road developed dunes from the blowing sand. We circumnavigated a headland and climbed up the lea side of Huiseabhal Beag, a 300m lump marking the end of a long ridge. Picture 12 croft house at Beitearsaig, 13 wind blown patterns on the beach, 14 Silverweeds, 15 Primroses, Louseworts and an out-of-focus Orchid.

The weather forecast became increasingly threatening as the line of Atlantic fronts previously kept at bay by an anticyclone relentlessly edged their way in. We were undecided until an 'incident' in a passing place, which resulted in a dented back door on the campervan and a perilously attached cycle rack, forced our hand. In torrential rain, we headed for Stornaway, next day we were in a Grey Ullapool and the following day back home.

Back home, everyone was brown, the lawn was parched and there were hosepipe bans in the south. Grrr!

Notes.

There are very few campsites on the Outer Hebrides and wild camping is the norm in most places. However, this does not mean that you can set up camp or park in someone's back garden. If in doubt - ask, most of the locals are very happy to have you there. The usual rules remain, don't be a nuisance in any way, don't leave litter and don't spoil it for the rest of us.

For those in campervans, there is (was) a pamphlet available from the tourist information offices indicating public toilet facilities and chemical toilet dumping locations. There are also showers and water taps to be found at some of the larger ferry terminals such as Tarbert and Lochboisdale as well as the usual rubbish disposal points.

Enjoy

chris.jackson@zen.co.uk