East Anglia, March 2007
A break with tradition. New roads and a new direction as for the first time ever we pointed the motorhome south east towards the fens and flat lands of East Anglia instead of the hills of the north and west. New indeed for instead of the familiar steep and craggy hillsides with mountain streams cutting their way into hard volcanic rocks we found miles of alien marshland populated by more birds than you could shake a tripod at. Flatish yes, but not quite flat, for the north coast of Norfolk rises to a lofty 102m at Beacon Hill near West Rownton and at Hunstanton there's even a cliff of soft sandstone topped by chalk rising to 15m. Modest though these hills may be, a little further south it's possible to trace the 0m contour on the OS map, wandering its way well inland.
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It's worth noting that this was early March and there seemed to by very few campsites open until the end of the month
Picture 1 the cliffs of Hunstanton, often photographed for there striking colours and the bright green islands of seaweed. The larger view reveals signs of significant rock falls. Picture 2 just some very nice ploughed fields and 3, Brent geese feeding near Blakeney point, 480mm lens (35mm equivalent) telephoto. Picture 4 the classic windmill at Cley village
Ornithology is definitely the largest recreational obsession along the Norfolk coast and Suzy and I spent some time wandering around the dunes and visiting the hides at Cley Marshes. The marshes are fairly unique in that they have been artificially maintained as fresh water marshes by building and encouraging large sand dunes to form along the northern edge to keep out the sea. Birds were everywhere, and though we didn't manage to spot the elusive Bittern we did see three Marsh Harriers - parents and a youngster dipping and diving over the wetlands. Ticks for us though commonplace for the grizzled dun-clad experts with their telescope, Zeiss binoculars and tripod were Shovellers, Greylag geese, Pintails, Avocets, Ring Plover, Teal, Brent Geese, Curlew, Black Tailed Godwit, Ruff, Little Egret and Wigeon all within a few hours. We also heard Cetti's warbler and Bearded tits though they remained illusive.
Having just got back on my feet after a month of very painful sciatica and hearing that the place lacked hills, we had packed the bikes onto the motorhome and planned a little gently cycling in top gear. Experience revealed however that although it hardly compares to Wales in undulations the north part of Norfolk is definitely not flat. Still, it was a grand place for cycling though there were less off-road tracks than we expected, the weather was positively spring-like. Our first circuit took us south from Blakeney, through Glandford, round Holt and down to Hunworth, across to Edgefield then back north returning across Salthouse Heath.
Picture 5 is low tide at Blakeney, Suzy on her bike alongside New Cut, a channel, presumably once new leading out to sea, 6 is the crossing of a small ford near Hunworth. This is a fairly rare picture as Suzy, after several bad experiences with fords has developed an aversion to them, and 7 is lunch at The Pigs. Excellent beer and what looked like an excellent menu, largely pig based apart from the puddings that is, but not exactly low cholesterol. Suzy in the porch with small porcine companion.
We moved on and located an excellent, campsite some 5 miles south of Cromer and used this as a base for a bike trip and a visit to Norwich. The bike trip took us to Blickling hall, a Jacobean manor owned by the National Trust. We arrived after a couple of hours easy cycling, I arrived with a flat back tyre which is not a major problem unless you've left your pump back at the campsite. Dispair was just setting in at the prospect of walking 6 miles back along the main A140 when we spotted a bike hire shop where they lent us a pump. Close one that!
Blickling Hall is a glorious Jacobean manor, owned by the National Trust is famous for its long gallery and tapesteries and has some of the most outrageous fireplaces that I have ever seen. The gardens and lakeside walks were pleasant but it was too early for most of the flowers.
Picture 8, Blickling hall with formal gardens and lake in background, 9 a pair of Blickling bulls which feature on the family crest and which can be found all over the house, there are hundreds of them.
Next day we drove to the outskirts of Norwich where we used the park-and-ride to reach the centre. A pleasant place but somehow not as quaint and ancient as I had imagined, maybe most of it burned down in some glorious religious war. The castle seemed untouched by conflict and had lately shrugged off its jailhouse mantle to house exhibitions of medieval bric-a-brac and paintings. Norwich cathedral a wonderful Norman creation built from the skin and bones of a miriad artisans did not disappoint. I hope God appreciates it. Picture 10 the west window entrance, 11 the interior and 12 one of the many beautiful stained glass windows.
We moved south again and the weather reverted to winter. Down to the Broads where the reeds leant and hissed in the northerly wind and the water slapped and sprayed along the edges of the waterways. We watched as a small dinghy overturned in a strong wind and snow squall, the occupants, unable to right it were towed ignominiously back to the marina in an upturned position by a rescue boat. Sleet rattled on the windows of the motorhome as we pressed on south in search of a campsite.
We found a simple site just north of Horsey on the B1159 and booked in for a couple of nights. The weather remained fairly horrible with strong wind and squally showers of sleet, but undeterred we set out next day on what turned out to be one of the most boring walks that I can remember. The land was totally flat, the reeds were so high that it was impossible to see anything should there be anything to see and a cold wind tugged relentlessly at us. Slightly dismayed we cut the intended circuit short and turned east through Winterton-on-sea where the highlight of the day was an excellent pint in the Fishermans Return. Winterton also has an impressive church that seems out of proportion to the size of the village. From here we plodded on to the coast path and for the next dreary 5 miles headed straight into the wind. I'm sure it all looks better in the summer but decided that it was boating rather than walking country.
South again, past Great Harmouth and Lowestoft the most easterly point in the British Isles to Southwold. This was a wonderful little place, an oasis of times past with its beach huts, pier and quirky amusement arcades. It was not exactly beach hut weather though as the strong northerly winds and winterly showers persisted.
Picture 13 shows some of the beach huts at Southwold, 14 the pier and a stormy brown sea.
That evening we found a good campsite near Alderburgh with excellent facilities and the next day were able to explore Dunwich forest (Dartford Warblers) and the nearby RSPB Minsmere nature reserve though we didn't enter the pay part as we were beginning to feel a bit over-birded.The weather forcast that evening was for another patch of bad weather and next day we headed home. Go back? Norfolk broads - probably not, Suffolk - probably.