The Peaks and Ridges of Andorra 2007
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June 25th. The N116, the main access road to Andorra from France was now open to single line traffic after the massive rockslide that had kept it closed for several weeks and generated some enormous traffic jams. We slipped through, spotting the Little Yellow Train across the valley dipping in and out of its tunnels. Onwards and upwards, the road climbed steadily past the walled town of Mont Louis to the border with Andorra at Puigcerda. Here we turned north, still in France to the alternative crossing at Pas de la Casa. For some obscure reason we took the toll Tunnel de Puymorens, an expensive mistake but when we emerged it was like entering another world, we had swapped bright sunshine for thick fog. We avoided the next tunnel and carried on climbing up the zigzags to emerge out of the cloud at Col de la Casa.
No one seemed interested in our passports and then we were in Andorra. Cheap fuel was everywhere, I kept getting one of those looks from Suzy as we had filled up in France. The ski resort below Pas de la Casa was pretty hideous, and as we crossed the pass and dropped down through Soldau it seemed as if we were entering a monster building site. Cranes were every where and the air was redolent with dust and noise. Short of supplies and in need of a base we camped at Canillo. A pleasant site, flat and with clean facilities the only downside was the constant cacophony from across the road where a huge section of solid rock was being blasted and drilled from the mountainside. We almost turned round and left but the country, fortunately we didn't, the spur valleys running north towards the French border were a world apart.
The shopping was OK and we were able to obtain a map - Mapa Excursionista 1:40000, easily available but of dubious accuracy at times. Note also, that the campsites marked in the Val d'Incles are primitive and the upper ones don't open until July.
June 26th. Col de Alba at 2546m from Val de Incles. A well surfaced road leads up Val d'Incles just below Soldau. Within minutes the noise of the main valley was left behind and we were driving between hay meadows carpeted with amazing displays of flowers. The road took us up a good car park at Pont de la Baladosa at about 1800m where the world was our oyster. Several valleys spread out from the end of the road each leading through beautiful valleys to blue serrated mountains. We ran around in a state of confusion for a few minutes, first choosing this route and then that until we opted for the most popular which leads to the Refugi de Juclar. See Map 1
The walk took us up a splendid floral valley, past waterfalls to the lake Estany Primer near where the hut is situated. We continued by the lake, across an isthmus and up the hillsides eventually reaching Col de Alba as the mist rolled in. Intermittantly we could see down to the Estany de l'Alba and France.
Picture 02 if the Estany Primer where there is a mountain hut. The grass may look welcoming but it was VERY prickly. Picture 3 are Anemones (we think) and 4 is the view back from the Col de Alba.
Suzy has acquired a small camera, a Canon Ixus which has quite a good macro facility allowing close-ups of flowers to be taken. It's also very light, probably similar to a mobile phone. Its downside is a lack of viewfinder and it can be quite difficult to be sure of focusing on a small target using the LCD screen in bright light. Picture 05, I think she was saying those frequently uttered words "I'm not sure that this is in focus".
There was no shortage of flowers in this area of the Pyrenees and despite it not being a limestone area I don't think that I've ever been in a more flowery region. Even the mountain tops had carpets of Mountain Azalea, Moss Campion and Cyphel (Minuartia sedoides).
Picture 06 shows a Pyrenean form of the Alpine Pasque flower Pulsatilla alpina aliifolia, 07 shows Pyrenean gentians which are rather more purple than other trumpet gentians. The lichens? No idea, green and arty.
June 28th. Pic de Estany Mort 2746m from Val de Ransol. Crystal clear and sunny and having spent a couple of days in the Val d'Incles we decided to try the adjacent valley, the Val de Ransol. The objective was Pic de la Serrera, an easy but longish trek to the 3rd highest peak in Andorra. When we arrived at the end of the surfaced road we discovered that we weren't the only ones with this objective, a coach was disgorging some 50 French walkers. See Map 2
Somewhat dismayed we changed our itinerary for the day and instead headed up the north end of the valley, past the Refugi dels Com de Jan into a wild area known as the Coma de Ransol. This was beautiful, the path was barely discernable, weaving its way through deep grass and up boiler plates of rock to a col at 2476m between Pic de Estany Mort and Bony de la Pala de Jan a peaklet at 2525m. See picture 08, from here it was a steep trackless pull up to the summit of Pic de la Estany Mort where the views were stunning. North was a trackless France, along the undulating ridge to the west was our earlier objective Pic de la Serrera and east the ridge climbed a bouldery slope to Pic de Mil Menut and out of sight. Picture 09 Shows Pic de la Estany Mort in the middle distance, Possibly Pic de la Serrera on the skyline.
The next peak Pic de la Pala de Jan was very bouldery and I was informed that there were too many stones on this mountain (picture 10) and that a gentle descent into the meadows was required.
Hmm. We headed down over terra incognito and it wasn't that gentle. I seem to recall that by the time we got back to the camper we had been out for about 7 hours.
June 29th. Coll de Androdat and Pic de Fontargent 2619m from Val d'Incles. The morning was a bit cloudy but this dissipated as we escaped the racket of the main valley into the Val d'Incles once again. We parked at Pont de Baladosa and this time took the delightful track up by the Riu de Managor as if heading for the pass at Port d'Incles.Once into the upper meadows we turned left on a small bet well defined path that climbed steeply into the upper cwm of Coma d'Androdat ana small lake Estany de l'Isla. Our objective was Pic d'Androdat which towered above the lake. The hillside here is some 400m of 45 degree hillside and we watched as a couple of parties threw themselves at it only to give in halfway up. We chose instead to climb to the Coll de Androdat on its east side which was relatively painless from where we could see and obvious track leading in about 200m to the summit, see picture 11. Madame was not over enthusiastic and suggested a lesser peak in the opposite direction, Pic de Fontargent.
There was no reference to this peak in any of our guide books so it had a certain attraction though I suspect that Suzy was only intending to visit the summit.
We climbed up to the summit and were presented with an immaculate ridge leading east the steeply down southeast towards Port d'Incles. There was muttering in the ranks as we knew nothing about the ridge and the descent to the Port d'Incles. Ridges have a tendency to be truncated and steep at the lower end. Nevertheless it was a splendid ridge, picture 12, which gradually increased in steepness and then became convex so that we couldn't see the lower parts. I clambered down some steepening vegetation and peeped over. Below were rocks but to the side was a grassy gully. Saved.
Next day was an enforced nature ramble, 13, umbelifers and a fern.
June 30th. Estany Bleu and Pic de Thoumasset 2741m from Sorteny. Left Canillo, removed ear plugs and headed off down the valley. Building continued a pace as we drove through Andorra la Vella and Ordino onto the road that goes nowhere. There were once great plans to build another route through to France. A good road was built and the tunnel started at Port de Rat but for some reason it all ended in tears. Perhaps all for the best as it would have ruined a beautiful and remote valley on the French side of the border ridge. Still, there's an excellent road giving access to the mountains
We camped at the rather expensive Bord de Ansalonga. Nice site though pity the hot water kept turning itself off. The campsite at Llorts further up the valley didn't open until early July. See Map 3
July 1st. Despite a cloudy morning we set of with a sense of optimism as we were in a new area. The large parking area at Sorteny was an excellent starting point for the next two walks. We set of up la Rabassa, the path starts almost from the car park. It's a lovely floral valley becoming more alpine as one crosses the Port de Siguer en route to the locally famous Estany Bleu, a popular picnic spot. Not today though and clouds gathered and showers dictated that we walk in waterproofs. We rounded the lake, our objective was Pic de Thoumasset which sat to the right of the lake atop a mass of large scree and steep trackless hillside.
Slowly we made the shoulder below the main top, from there it was less steep but with the odd bit of scrambling. The top, quick photos (14 & 15) then off down. The weather slowly closed in such that 1 km from the campervan the heavens opened. Too late we donned the waterproofs and we were soaked.
July 3rd. Pic de l'Estanyo 2915m from Sorteny. Sorteny again, this time we headed up the main track towards the Refugi de Sorteny before crossing the Riu de Sortey and heading through meadow then up more steeply through woods towards the lake of l'Estanyo. The flowers on this section were stunning and there were section where it would have been impossible to stuff any more flowers into the hillside, so closely packed were they.
From the lake (16) the going got a bit more alpine and steep as we gained a long ridge which would eventually lead to the summit of Pic de l'Estanyo 2915m which I think might be the second highest in Andorra. The flowers persisted though with Creeping Azalea, Moss Campion, Gentians, Garland Flowers and Cyphel.
The top was deceptive with a distinct false summit so that just as you thought that it was all over this cone of boulders heft into view requiring more effort. Still, no pain no gain. It was a grand top (17 & 18) and I was almost tempted to continue the traverse round to Collado de Ferraro. It looked excellent with the odd excrescence on it but Suzy's not really a climber and we might run into trouble. So we didn't
On the way down Suzy took the lead and we found ourselves dropping down a ridge that wasn't ours. As a quick fix I suggested a traverse to the correct one. Bad idea, and there was much complaining as we crossed a slope of unstable scree and hanging death.
Picture 19 the long ridge down.
On the way up Suzy said something that I never thought I'd hear. She said "I'm fed up of climbing mountains".
Time to drift north again.